The traditional costume of Ittiri: jewel of northern Sardinia

"The beautiful Hittites wear a skirt of scarlet cloth with minute pleats and two gold chevrons at the end... It leaves a grateful impression on you the continuous and sonorous jingle of twenty-two silver buttons adorning their sleeves."
Enrico Costa 1876

Even the Sardinian writer Enrico Costa was fascinated by the richness and beauty of the costume of Ittiri(, which jingled festively thanks to the very precious "buttonhole."

"Sa Buttonera" is in fact the hallmark of the traditional dress of the village of Ittiri in northern Sardinia.

The 22 buttons (or often the number is 20) in silver filigree are the wonderful jewels that make up "Sa Buttonera."

Pomegranate-shaped buttons decorate the forearms of the vest, divided on each side. Only 2 are threaded through the buttonholes, while the others hang and jingle with each movement of the wearer.

The size and weight have significantly increased over time due to strong emulation among households; the total weight can be as much as 2 kg!

In the early twentieth century the use of gold buttonere was also introduced by a very few wealthy families as an additional sign of distinction.

The other jewels of the dress

  • a foil medallion ( medallion or brojolo) attached to a choker or black velveteen
  • twin buttons ( buttones de pettorra ) that close the shirt at the neckline
  • an "up and down" chain with sliding loop ( cadena a jobos or a musciu) that is braided into an M shape by means of two pins (fremmaglios)
  • one or two heavy necklaces of red, often faceted coral( collanas de coraddu piccadu)
  • the earrings ( araccadas) in coral and gold

The party dress

Almost all adolescent women in Hittite families, who were mainly engaged in agriculture, sheep farming or small crafts, had their own festive dress: the red dress, used for weddings and important occasions.

Su estire ruju is what we can admire during traditional parades in Ittiri or during events in Sardinia.

The fabrics are fine, the color scheme bright, the ornamentation elaborate, and the finishes very accurate.

The skirt, which gives its name to the entire fashions, is of fine scarlet, thickly pleated, except for the front panel, which is detachable, and generally has a flounce formed of dark silk velvet ( tertialpel), textured or plain, framed by gold chevrons, or of white silk richly embroidered with multicolored florals.

The apron (pannellu 'e tullu ) of the "bestire ruju" is normally of white tulle embroidered with florals or with grape vines and grapes , in chain stitch, white on white.

The stiff bodice ( imbustu) , associated with a breast-covering scarf mostly of tulle, lace or pale silk is almost always covered with white satin, embroidered with roses and leaves with multicolored silk threads and golden canuttiglio.

The bolero (su corittu) is usually of smooth silk velvet in shades of red or purple and is also decorated with the characteristic twisted silk cordones .

The garment has conspicuous buttonholes at the forearms, floral embroidery at the elbow and is further embellished with sequins ( lustrinos) of silver metal.

The headdress of the gala costume consists of a sack cap ( iscoffia ), until 1930 made of brocade and later almost always of embroidered white satin, over which a veil of white tulle ( tullu or velu ) is draped to match the apron. Su estire ruju is never worn without a rich set of jewelry, rigidly fixed by tradition.

Scoprite tutti gli eventi di Salude & Trigu dove potrete ammirare gli abiti tradizionali della Sardegna.
Segnaliamo in particolare Ittiri Folk Festa, dal 19 al 25 luglio.

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